The collection of electronic circuit - schematics. Power supply, audio, microcontroller, digital circuits, analog circuits and more...
Easy Build RF Transmitter
This circuit most likely the easiest and simplest radio transmitter which you will get anyplace. It uses total of 5 components and could be built into a really compact space. It's very good for science fair projects or other science related projects in which a small range transmission is useful.
It works on 1.5 to 3 V, with small hearing aid battery packs or lithium "coin" cells becoming excellent. A thermistor or photoresistor may be inserted in series with R1 to get a various output frequency depending on the input.
The frequency may also be adjusted by modifying the value of C1. A 2N2222 transistor is highly recommended, but you are able to try out other types as well. Performance is likely to vary from type to type as well as from transistor to transistor. L1 is 20 to 30 turns of thin magnet wire (24 to 32 ga.) close wound about a 1/8 to 1/4" diameter non-conductive form. The coil is normally tapped 1/3 of the way from one end and also the tap connected to the emitter of Q1. Try out with all of the values in this particular circuit. Nothing is vital, but the result may be varied considerably.
Pipe Bomb Mic Construction
Pipe Bomb Mic Construction, by Jamie Heilman:
My own dimensions for my prototype are X= 36cm, Y= 5.5cm. This imparted a fairly high pitch tone but I like it.
The X and Y dimensions really should be played with to develop the precise tone your seeking, also I chose a telephone loudspeaker as well as a crystal mic so I got the funkiest tone I could think of. A dynamic microphone might limit the treble somewhat most likely make it sound less harsh. I’d be considering any mods produced to this style (ie. stories, suggestions, etc.) so feel free to e mail me.
The amps may be any old easy op-amp construction that can drive a loudspeaker or take a mic input. I just made use of some excess material I had lying around to make mine. The end product had all the circuitry inside the tube and the battery pack on the outside, with one control for the gain of the loudspeaker (mic was at fixed gain).
Note, in case you locate this in the front of the amplifier and turn every thing up, without having adding any dampening to the pipe, it will feedback just like you wont imagine! You'll most likely wish to keep away from this because it tends to hurt your ears. I put a bit of foam rubber in one end of the tube and an old sock in the other to dampen feedback. I like to leave my alternatives open though, so I also didn’t make this a permanent addition. My prototype is essentially a fuzz, as my guitar will overload the loudspeaker fairly simply and the pipe just adds a bit of strange overtone and what I believe is the smallest hint of reverb. Sounds excellent though! Clean tones via a similar set up would sound good too, but I haven’t constructed one of those yet. Possibly a larger speaker (4-5") and an old carpet pipe would probably add improved characteristics for clean tones. Attempt changing the tube material also for a various tone, I almost applied a bit of gutter piping when I 1st built this, right now I wonder what it would’ve sounded like.
Download the document about how to build Pipe Bomb Mic in PDF file:
Download Link
My own dimensions for my prototype are X= 36cm, Y= 5.5cm. This imparted a fairly high pitch tone but I like it.
The X and Y dimensions really should be played with to develop the precise tone your seeking, also I chose a telephone loudspeaker as well as a crystal mic so I got the funkiest tone I could think of. A dynamic microphone might limit the treble somewhat most likely make it sound less harsh. I’d be considering any mods produced to this style (ie. stories, suggestions, etc.) so feel free to e mail me.
The amps may be any old easy op-amp construction that can drive a loudspeaker or take a mic input. I just made use of some excess material I had lying around to make mine. The end product had all the circuitry inside the tube and the battery pack on the outside, with one control for the gain of the loudspeaker (mic was at fixed gain).
Note, in case you locate this in the front of the amplifier and turn every thing up, without having adding any dampening to the pipe, it will feedback just like you wont imagine! You'll most likely wish to keep away from this because it tends to hurt your ears. I put a bit of foam rubber in one end of the tube and an old sock in the other to dampen feedback. I like to leave my alternatives open though, so I also didn’t make this a permanent addition. My prototype is essentially a fuzz, as my guitar will overload the loudspeaker fairly simply and the pipe just adds a bit of strange overtone and what I believe is the smallest hint of reverb. Sounds excellent though! Clean tones via a similar set up would sound good too, but I haven’t constructed one of those yet. Possibly a larger speaker (4-5") and an old carpet pipe would probably add improved characteristics for clean tones. Attempt changing the tube material also for a various tone, I almost applied a bit of gutter piping when I 1st built this, right now I wonder what it would’ve sounded like.
Download the document about how to build Pipe Bomb Mic in PDF file:
Download Link
Transistored Stereo Tone Control
Here the circuit diagram of stereo tone control system which also available on the market in circuit kit, you might get the kit at electronic component/part store near your area. The tone control require 12v of supply voltage to work.
The circuit designed based on common tone control circuit, by using two transistors FCS9014 in each channel, so there are actually four transistors in this 12v stereo tone control. Take a note that you need to install the circuit prior to the amplifier device. The output of tone control should be connected towards the input of the audio amplifier. Any small signal NPN transistor such as BC547B, 2N3904, C828, or C945 may be put to use to replace FCS9014.
The circuit designed based on common tone control circuit, by using two transistors FCS9014 in each channel, so there are actually four transistors in this 12v stereo tone control. Take a note that you need to install the circuit prior to the amplifier device. The output of tone control should be connected towards the input of the audio amplifier. Any small signal NPN transistor such as BC547B, 2N3904, C828, or C945 may be put to use to replace FCS9014.
Very Easy R/C Circuit
The following diagram is a very easy and efficient receiver for actuating garage doors, starter motors, alarms, warning systems and numerous some other possibilities.
The SCR, that has a extremely low trigger present of 30 uA is common -- it requires an input electric power of just 30 uW to switch on the relay. A high Q tuned antenna circuit assures rejection of spurious signals. A whip or wire antenna is adequate as much as 100 feet from a low power transistor transmitter. A momentary-off switch resets the circuit.
The circuit specifies a whip or wire antenna which just indicates a solid piece of wire 6-12 inches long (15-30cm). The antenna coil is experimental, however you can start with ten to 12 turns of #22 (0.7mm) magnet wire, and 5/16" (8mm) coil diameter. Antenna wire is soldered at 1/2 turn of the coil and the gate of the BRY35 is soldered about halfway the coil. This circuit will transmit as much as 100-feet with the above specs @ 30uA.
The relay coil is specify's as much as 200 ohm but that's just the one I had in stock. Any low-ohm relay, even at 9V or so, ought to accomplish the task. And one remaining note, do not be expecting too a lot from this circuit. The "Very Easy R/C Circuit" is simply that; Easy!
The BRY35 is really an classic semiconductor produced by Philips. A great replacement would be the EC103D1, also produced by Philips (see pin-out picture for this device). NTE Semiconductors gives an alternative of NTE5405, but I have not attempted it. I think, a NTE5400 (30V) or NTE5401 (60V) will function just also. The NTE5405 is a bit overkill at 400V.
The SCR, that has a extremely low trigger present of 30 uA is common -- it requires an input electric power of just 30 uW to switch on the relay. A high Q tuned antenna circuit assures rejection of spurious signals. A whip or wire antenna is adequate as much as 100 feet from a low power transistor transmitter. A momentary-off switch resets the circuit.
The circuit specifies a whip or wire antenna which just indicates a solid piece of wire 6-12 inches long (15-30cm). The antenna coil is experimental, however you can start with ten to 12 turns of #22 (0.7mm) magnet wire, and 5/16" (8mm) coil diameter. Antenna wire is soldered at 1/2 turn of the coil and the gate of the BRY35 is soldered about halfway the coil. This circuit will transmit as much as 100-feet with the above specs @ 30uA.
The relay coil is specify's as much as 200 ohm but that's just the one I had in stock. Any low-ohm relay, even at 9V or so, ought to accomplish the task. And one remaining note, do not be expecting too a lot from this circuit. The "Very Easy R/C Circuit" is simply that; Easy!
The BRY35 is really an classic semiconductor produced by Philips. A great replacement would be the EC103D1, also produced by Philips (see pin-out picture for this device). NTE Semiconductors gives an alternative of NTE5405, but I have not attempted it. I think, a NTE5400 (30V) or NTE5401 (60V) will function just also. The NTE5405 is a bit overkill at 400V.